French Vanilla Ice Cream

French Vanilla Ice Cream:

170g.
Milk
170g.
Heavy Cream
85g.
Granulated Sugar
½ bean
Vanilla Bean
50g.
Egg Yolks


Method of Procedure:
  1. Prepare an ice-water bath.
  2. Combine milk, cream,½ the sugar and vanilla in a saucepot.  Scald.
  3. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks and half the sugar.  Temper with the scalded mixture. 
  4. Pour the entire mixture into the saucepot and cook until nappe.  (175-178F)
    1. Stir constantly.  
  5. Pour the mixture into a bowl and cool down in the ice water bath. 
    1.  Cool according to safety regulations.
  6. Churn and freeze to 20% overrun.
  7. Freeze in the blast chiller, and store it in the freezer.  


HACCP NOTE:
When making ice cream it’s important to follow a HACCP plan to ensure proper food safety.  Ice cream is a ready-to-eat,  'potentially hazardous' food.  This means that it is more susceptible to support the growth of pathogenic bacteria related to food poisoning and must be kept at certain temperatures to minimize the growth of any pathogens.  

Chefs Notes:
Ice cream is a frozen dessert component of a dish.  The frozen element is needed to balance the temperature contrast between the elements. This will create a pleasurable mouthfeel.  There are two main types of ice cream; French and American.  They have several differences but the largest is in- the ingredients.  French ice cream requires eggs while American does not.  This gives the French ice cream a much richer flavor and texture. Another difference is in flavor, French ice cream supports nutty favors like chocolate, hazelnut or pecan.  American ice cream is better for a sweeter, fruity flavor.  

Eggs are an expensive ingredient, so commercial ice cream companies create an American style ice cream. Commercial ice cream usually contains some kind of chemical stabilizer, as that is what the eggs do in French-style ice cream.  This is why commercial ice cream from the grocery store is never as good as freshly made ice cream. 

Ice cream prefers a 14%-16% butterfat content in the milk and cream products.  This is because an excessive amount of butterfat will cause the ice cream to freeze separately, not resulting in a smooth texture.  The sugar content in the mixture should be 14% to 16% but absolutely never more than 18%, this is to avoid sugar crystallization.  The eggs support richness, flavor, fat, and color.  Egg yolks have a high amount of lecithin and this works as an emulsifier, creating a smooth texture.  When using egg yolks be sure to use pasteurized eggs, or bring the base to 140F to kill any possible pathogens.   

After creating the mixture be sure to chill it for 4-12 hours, and do not rush it.  During this time you’re allowing the proteins to fully absorb the water.  This process prevents ice crystals, resulting in a smoother finished product.  

The type of ice cream scoop you see above is known as a quenelle.  This is a fairly difficult skill to master and the only way to really perfect it is to sit for hours and just repeat the motion.  You can quenelle just about anything that has a smooth consistent texture.  This could be ice cream,  sorbet mashed potatoes, or even pate.  It's used in both the pastry and savory kitchen, so it can be a very useful skill to learn.  The first place I ever made a quenelle was back in Miami when I worked at BRAVA.  They would quenelle an umami butter to go with the brioche bread and the quenelles were expected to be consistently shaped and sized.  Anywho, there are some specific things you'll need to know before you start.  Always have very hot water to put your spoon in between each scoop.  This does two things, one it will clean off your spoon so each time you go in with a clean scoop. Second, if you have a warm spoon this will help you to smoothly guide through the substance.  It's pretty difficult to describe in words how to make the motion so here is linked a video that I like from Justin Khanna, which was helpful in trying to learn how to quenelle.

From my kitchen to yours,
MallaryMade






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